Intel has announced its first products in the 12th-generation Intel Core lineup, which includes the new Intel Core i9-12900K. It features a new hybrid architecture for leaps in multi-threaded performance, and up to two times faster content creation.
The full list of processors included in the 12-generation of Core CPUs includes 60 processors which Intel says are set to power more than 500 designs from its range of partners. This includes the new XPS Desktop that Dell just revealed earlier this morning.
Intel says that the new performance hybrid architecture, the first built on Intel 7 process, delivers scalable performance from 9 to 125 watts so that they are compatible with every PC segment, from ultra-thin laptops to high-end desktops.
Of those 60 processors, six are unlocked desktop processors that are the first based on Intel’s performance hybrid architecture featuring a combination of Performance-cores (P-cores), the highest performing CPU core Intel has built, and Efficient-cores (E-cores), designed for scalable multi-threaded workload performance.
Intel Thread Director enables the two new core microarchitectures to work seamlessly together by guiding the operating system (OS) to place the right thread on the right core at the right time. Intel has worked with the ecosystem on extensive testing to optimize performance and compatibility, and as part of the company’s reinforced investments in the developer community, has published white papers for developers with guidance on how independent software vendors can optimize applications for performance hybrid platforms.
The result is what Intel is claiming to be the world’s best gaming processor, avaialble with up to 16 cores and 24 threads. Gaming aside, photographers and filmmakers haven’t been forgotten as Intel promises some substantial performance gains in the creative space.
Intel says that its advancements in multi-threaded performance along with the responsive performance of the P-cores, and the ability to move data at incredible speeds with DDR5 means up to 36% faster photo editing performance, up to 32% faster video editing performance, up to 37% faster 3D modeling performance, and up to 100% faster multi-frame rendering. These numbers were measured by PugetBench Lightroom Classic benchmark, Premiere Pro benchmark, Revit 2021-model creation benchmark, and Adobe After Effects Pulse benchmark.
Alongside the 12th Gen Intel Core desktop processors, Intel is launching the new Intel 600 Series Chipset with advanced features for increased reliability and performance. New PCIe Gen 4.0 lanes make for 28 total lanes off the chipset, integrated USB 3.2 Gen 2×2 provides up to double the bandwidth, DMI Gen 4.0 increases the chipset to CPU throughput for fast access to peripheral devices and networking.
The new unlocked 12th-gen Intel Core desktop processors are available for pre-order now and will have broad availabilty starting on November 4. Pricing starts at $264 to $589.
Editing video can be a cumbersome and drawn-out task depending on the type of shoot. However, there are always ways to smooth out and streamline your workflow that can make a world of difference. Here are 10 tips from a professional filmmaker.
My first comprehensive video shoot taught me a lot I wasn’t prepared for. I had spent so much time honing settings, working out how to shoot for certain color grades, and focusing on the shooting side of the work, I had neglected a lot of the basics. When I got back to my computer, did my usual backing up process, and prepared for the edit, I realized the mountain ahead of me that I needed to scale.
There are a lot of ways you can make this mountain more manageable, and Film Riot cover 10 in this video. The one that I deemed most important to improve on personally is incidentally the first on this list: organize. I’m typically organized to an irritating degree, with preparation and order being top of my list when it comes to planning a shoot. However, what I hadn’t prepared for, was the organization of footage once it has been shot. I spent hours searching through clips looking for moments I knew I’d filmed, but wasn’t sure where. This was repeated in a number of other ways — some of which Film Riot mentions in this video — but I knew for the next shoot I’d adjust them all.
So, if you’re new to videography, the tip I would most recommend taking on board from this list is organization. Grouping your clips, labeling them, and removing the need to sift through all of your content while compiling the footage can save you enormous amounts of time.
Canon has spent the last five months hyping up its new sports camera and if there is anything to take away from it now that the R3 has been fully announced, it is that Canon has done a remarkable job closing the technology gap with Sony.
For years now, Sony has been the undisputed champion of camera technology. While there have been complaints on other aspects of the company’s products — the menu is still not the best, despite a recent rework — no other company has really come close when it comes to the impressive technology packed into a camera.
That really all came to a head in 2017 when Sony launched the Alpha 9. I tested that camera when it first came out, and what it was capable of really did blow my mind. Things have only improved with the Alpha 1, which I lauded as the most professional camera ever made in the mirrorless age.
For the better part of the last decade, Sony has felt untouchable, but today there are many features in the new EOS R3 that Canon developed in-house that shock me with how on-par they are with what Sony has produced. If it’s not clear, I’m saying Sony is still the champion when it comes to the best possible technology in a camera. But what I also want to say is that I, and many others in the industry, are genuinely shocked at how quickly Canon is closing that gap.
There are a few very specific things about the EOS R3 that stand out to me when it comes to technology: autofocus, sensor performance, the electronic viewfinder, and the hot shoe. In all of these areas, Canon either matches or comes close to what Sony has spent years leading up to — on paper, at least — and Canon appears to have done it in half the time.
Sony has great autofocus, but Canon has always been right there with its Dual Pixel technology. The R3 might actually be on par or better than the Alpha 1 when it comes to in-the-field performance, but since PetaPixel has not had a chance to test the camera yet, let’s focus on what’s on paper for the sake of this conversation.
The Sony Alpha 1 features 759 autofocus points that cover 92% of the sensor. The Sony Alpha 9 II has a 693-point autofocus system with 93% frame coverage. The Canon EOS R3 has 1,053 autofocus points that cover the entire sensor.
The EOS R3 also is able to perform 60 autofocus calculations a second, which matches the Alpha 9 II. The Alpha 1 does still win here as it performs 120 calculations per second.
Sony has been pushing the envelope with its sensors for quite some time and currently has the best combination of resolution and speed available in the Alpha 1. But Canon isn’t far behind. The R3 features a backside-illuminated stacked design that can shoot at 30 frames per second with no blackout. That’s faster than the Alpha 9 II at the same resolution and matches the speed of the Alpha 1, though Sony takes the win on resolution.
Still, that’s remarkably close.
I think it was largely overlooked, but I cannot emphasize how impressed I am with Canon’s electronic viewfinder (EVF). Not only does it integrate eye-control autofocus which is a whole other level of technology integration that Sony doesn’t have a direct comparison to, it is also a 5.76-million-dot, 120 frames-per-second OLED that was designed and developed by Canon. It has better resolution than the Alpha 1’s 3.68 million dot OLED, although it is not quite up to the 9.4 million dot OLED Sony has in its Alpha 1.
Still, it was made in-house, which is worth pointing out considering how few other companies choose to go that route.
The Hot Shoe
Sony has been talking about the capabilities of its hot shoe for a few years now, and Canon has basically wholly caught up. Both companies offer a better and more functional connection for accessories and both also have made shotgun microphones that take advantage of that.
The Gap Between Canon and Sony is Small
What I want to put in perspective here though is how quickly Canon blew past the Alpha 9 II — which is probably the R3’s actual competitor since both cameras are aimed at photojournalists — and how close many of its technologies are to Sony’s flagship. Sony made its first full-frame mirrorless camera in the Alpha 7 and 7R in 2013 and launched the Alpha 9 in 2017. The Alpha 1 was released just this past year in January.
Canon launched the EOS R in 2018, which was basically a rehoused 5D Mark IV. It didn’t produce its first real from-scratch mirrorless until 2020 with the EOS R5 and R6. And just one year later, it produced the R3.
It took Sony four years to make a really great photojournalist camera after starting its camera line and eight years to reach what is the pinnacle of technology today. It took Canon two years to go from its first mirrorless camera to the R5, and just three years to get to the R3.
What makes this impressive is that Canon developed its own sensor, viewfinder, processor, and associated hardware and software technologies in that time and did not rely on any other company to do it. Sony makes the sensors and much of the technology found in all the other full-frame mirrorless competitors except for Canon, and it happens to be Canon that is the closest to matching the best that Sony can make, especially considering that Canon not only has done this but has done so in just three years.
Sony is still at the front of the pack, but Canon is nipping at its heels.
Image credits: Elements of header photo licensed via Depositphotos.
Is there a difference in depreciation between the two different types of cameras? Let’s take a look at depreciation for mirrorless camera bodies, and how it compares to DSLRs.
Previously, we explored topics like what Leica-M gear sells the fastest, which Micro Four Thirds system held up better over time, and which line of Sony’s full-frame mirrorless cameras is most popular.
This story is part of KEH’s Tilt-Shift Report, where the company shares exclusive data and unique insights into the latest trends in camera gear buying, trading, and selling.
We often talk about the shift from DSLRs to mirrorless, and how that has been the defining realignment in the industry over the last decade, but it’s important to look at the elimination of the reflex mirror as merely a key step in a heated tech race, rather than a single transformative act.
While the switch to mirrorless has no doubt accelerated the pace of innovation and has led to a flourish of advancements over the last decade, the overall growth has gone way beyond the shift from mirrors and pentaprisms to electronics.
Things like subject-aware autofocus, on-sensor phase detection, multi-axis in-body stabilization, 4K (and now 8K) video, and advanced lens design and coatings have all catapulted the gear on which we rely to new heights.
Of course, camera and lens manufacturers have been forced to pick up the pace of innovation or risk getting stranded behind. This has led to shorter production cycles, especially for camera bodies, where most of the new features rest.
So, what does this mean for the depreciation of mirrorless bodies? Does a new body feel less new when you know the next model is as little as 16 months away? Does that make the value of mirrorless bodies akin to driving a brand new car off the dealer’s lot?
Let’s look at some data and see if it can offer some insights.
First, let’s look at the average price of mirrorless bodies across brands over the last four years. This is the “buy” price, which is the average price customers pay for these bodies on our site. In order to show the true effect of depreciation, we only included items that were available in both 2018 and 2021—so nothing that has been released since is in our model.
As it’s easy to tell by glancing at the graph above that Leica mirrorless bodies, which include the M, SL, CL and TL series of bodies, are up in their own stratosphere—much more expensive than the competition.
But overall, Leica hasn’t been immune to a drop in average price over the last four years, starting at $2,390 in 2018, and ending at $2,145 right now in 2021. It’s fair to point out that they have slightly rebounded from an average value of only $2,078 in 2020, though.
Now, let’s eliminate them, so we can get a closer look at the other brands.
It’s a little easier to see some variance between the individual brands without Leica in the mix. Sony mirrorless bodies have seen the least depreciation in average price ($586 in 2018 to $562 in 2021), with Canon ($321 in ’18 to $288 in ’21) and Fujifilm ($450 in ’18 to $403 in ’21) close behind.
That average value for Canon may seem low, but keep in mind that only their first full-frame offering, the EOS R (released Q4 of 2018) is included in our model, so its higher price point is brought down when averaged with the more affordable EF-M series of cameras.
Going back to the graph, Panasonic and Olympus experienced a bigger drop in price, but Nikon is the brand that has fared the worst, probably aided in no small part by the near obsolescence of their 1 series of CX-sensor mirrorless bodies.
It’s also worth mentioning that, like Leica, three other brands (Sony, Fujifilm, and Canon) have all rebounded well in 2021 from the slide that hit its lowest point in 2020. Meanwhile, Panasonic, Olympus, and Nikon have shown a continued drop.
It’s possible, however, that since both Panasonic and Nikon have recently strengthened their full-frame and cropped-frame mirrorless offerings, if we ran this model with data for just the last two years, the story would be slightly different. This should reassure adopters of those systems that they’ll still be able to get a good return when it’s time to upgrade to new bodies.
Next, let’s look at how mirrorless cameras have fared versus DSLRs over the same period.
Here, you can see how the pattern of depreciation is similar, but it differs in magnitude. Overall, mirrorless bodies experienced a 14.6% drop in value from 2018 to 2021, while DSLRs only dropped by 11.1%.
But if we look at the average “sell” price — the amount which KEH pays photographers for their gear — the difference is even more striking.
Here, you can see that mirrorless cameras have seen a decrease in value by about 12.6%, compared to just a 2.2% for DSLRs.
So, what does this mean?
Well, it means that demand is still high for DSLRs, so we’re willing to keep paying a more constant amount to people who are selling them, hence, DSLRs are definitely hanging on to their value better than mirrorless cameras. Granted, DSLRs fetch for a lower price on average, but they’re not dropping by as much as mirrorless.
Ultimately, all this can change pretty quickly over the next couple of years.
Now that mirrorless technology has gotten over the hump of its early years and use is widespread, the market will probably stabilize to look a lot more like the well-established DSLR space. But as competition gets tougher, brands like Olympus might fall by the wayside if they’re not innovating in lock-step with their peers.
About the author: Luca Eandi is a Brooklyn-based street photographer, creative director for KEH Camera, and a board-certified human person. He recently published “Signs of Japan,” a long-term photography project documenting illustrated Japanese street signs in the Tokyo area. He posts his daily street photography work on his Instagram profile. This article was also published here.
Image credits: Elements of header photo licensed via Depositphotos.
Lightroom obviously is a powerful editor with the highest level of user-friendliness. It’s made to help beginners and advanced photographers edit their photographs within the blink of an eye. Its shortcuts can speed up your edits. Here are my favorite ones and a description of when and how I use them.
Staying organized is quite hard when shooting thousands of photographs a month. I am working with a few different catalogs and often need to switch between them. Usually, I click on “File” and “Open Recent” to access my most popular catalogs. Whenever I know that I need a catalog that I didn’t use for a while, there’s another shortcut.
Ctrl + O: Directly opens the window to find the catalog of your choice. It saves you two clicks!
Far more important, however, is the quick import of my photographs. Instead of clicking myself into the library and searching for the small “Import…” button, there’s a more convenient option.
Ctrl + Shift + I: Gets you directly to the import window. Speed advice: For keeping a good overview, I already tag the images here, so I won’t forget later. I also started giving each session its own name.
Shortcuts for Image Review
After a photography session, I usually come back with a bunch of photographs. Many of them look alike with only the slightest differences in perspective, settings, and of course, the position of clouds and light. Choosing the best of them can be hard, so I’m happy that there are some shortcuts that allow me a quick review and even apply some edits quickly. There are five magic letters to support you.
G: This letter doesn’t only get you to the library quickly, it also shows your photographs in a grid (hence “G”). It’s very useful to get an overview of every photograph you shot in one session.
E: If you prefer looking at a single image in your library, this key will let you switch to the loupe view and shows the first image of a selection or your selected image.
D: Quickly get the selected photograph into the editor and apply your first edits.
L: You should never underestimate the effect of a tidy interface. With “L,” you darken all the disturbing modules, sliders, and symbols. It helps you focus on your photographs, no matter if you look at a grid or a single image. You can even apply changes if you find the right slider.
F: My all-time favorite. In the develop or library window, you can quickly put your photograph in a screen-fit view with a black background.
Shortcuts for Image Ratings
Review and ratings can be done completely without moving your mouse. A few hotkeys help you quickly select and rate your photographs and even give them a color label.
P: Pick a photograph by “flagging” it. It’s useful to highlight usable shots.
X: Reject a photograph whenever it’s not sharp enough, badly exposed, or when you have a similar one that looks a little better.
U: You’re not sure about the flag status? Remove your flag or rejection quickly by unflagging it. You can come back later!
Advice: You can also delete all of your rejected photographs by pressing “Ctrl” + “Backspace.” It’s a bold step, though, especially when you just imported them.
Numbers 0-5: Rating your images can help you find your gems even after years. Since I’m involved with Fstoppers, my ratings apply to the star rating of the Fstoppers community. One star: A snapshot that might be deleted soon. Five stars? Sure, whenever National Geographic will call me because they want my photo as a cover image.
Numbers 6-9: I apply color labels according to the purpose of an image. Exclusively used or sold photographs get a red label, photographs that are used on a blog or Instagram and can be used multiple times get a yellow label. Green is open for use, and blue photographs are private only.
Ctrl + G: Whenever I work with HDR or focus stacking, I group the photographs quickly by selecting them and using this shortcut.
Ctrl + N: I work a lot with collections as well. Using this shortcut will create a new collection for your selected photographs.
Shortcuts for Editing a Photograph
Editing a photograph can take quite a while, especially when you’re trying to tweak every single pixel. To prevent dizziness because of too much movement of your mouse, you can easily shift between the tools by using their shortcuts. Unfortunately, you often have to apply the settings separately.
R: You don’t need to move your mouse from your photograph to crop it. Simply use this shortcut.
Advice: Within the Crop tool, you can change the overlay by hitting “O” and also turn the overlay by hitting “Shift” + “O.” “X” will change the ratio from landscape to portrait and vice versa.
M: Select the graduated filter. Settings need to be applied by mouse.
K: Quickly apply a local adjustment with the adjustment brush. Settings need to be applied by shifting the sliders.
Q: Did you find a dust spot? You don’t need to leave the preview window to remove it. Hit “Q,” get rid of it, and go on editing your photograph.
While most of the tools need to be adjusted by shifting the sliders, you can actually change the global edits of the “Basic” module only by using your keyboard.
+ / -: You can shift each slider by the value of five by hitting either “+” or “-“. Lightroom will start with your “Exposure” slider, but you can switch to the sliders below by hitting “.” When fine-tuning your edit, it might be better to use the sliders. I mostly use the keyboard option when I’m selecting photographs from the library but want to get an overview of what is possible in the edit. By just changing the exposure, I can figure out how much detail I can recover in the shadows or highlights and if the photograph is worth a proper edit.
J: Additionally, you can check the clipped areas quickly with this shortcut. All of your clipped areas will be marked blue (shadows) or red (highlights).
Ctrl + Alt + V: This combination is quite useful when you have two similarly exposed photographs (although it’s a finger twister for me). You can apply the settings of the previous photograph to the selected one. Crop and other adjustments will also be applied.
Ctrl + Shift + S: This is the shortcut for synchronizing settings. It will open a new window to apply selected adjustments to all of your selected photographs from the photograph that is selected for editing and hence marked a little brighter.
Ctrl + E: Sometimes, you want to edit above the level of Lightroom. This combination will bring your selected photograph to Adobe Photoshop. The best shortcuts for this program? That’s another topic — and a big one, too.
Did I Forget Something?
What looks like taking a huge amount of human memory performance is actually not an all too big issue. When you start applying these shortcuts one by one into your workflow, you will soon write them into your muscle memory. You probably don’t even think about “Ctrl”+”C” when you hit it, do you? It doesn’t only save you a little time, it also affects your editing, because you start working with Lightroom in a different, even more intuitive way.
Of course, there are far more shortcuts in Lightroom than I mentioned here, but these seem to be the ones I use the most (if not always). Do you want to add something? I’m glad to hear about others’ recommendations in the comments.
Landscape photographer Christian Möhrle of The Phlog Photography recently put together a handy compilation of his favorite tips and tricks for Adobe Lightroom Classic. Chances are good you’ll find at least one or two (and probably several more) little workflow tips that you didn’t know about.
Like it or not, Lightroom Classic is still the RAW editor that most photographers (sometimes grudgingly) use to edit their images. Obviously, if you’re a fan of Adobe alternatives like Capture One, Affinity Photo, or open source options like RAWTherapee or Darktable, this won’t apply to you, but if you do use Lightroom, Möhrle has done a great job covering a bunch of useful tips without wasting any of your time in the process.
There’s no long-winded intro, no use of ALL CAPS in the headline claiming that this is “The TRUTH about editing PHOTOS in Lightroom,” and no Squarespace sponsor break. Just a quick breakdown of 30 genuinely useful tips and tricks for editing your photos in Lightroom Classic.
Here’s a full list, with timestamps, in case you want to skip around and only check out the ones that you don’t already know about:
Dragging the Histogram – 0:28
Shift-Click Sliders – 0:55
Mouse-dragging slider values – 1:03
Bigger develop panel – 1:13
Double-click sliders – 1:23
Camera profiles – 1:43
Camera profile opacity – 2:06
Spot removal visualization – 2:22
Straighten image – 3:00
Different crop grids – 3:24
Make clipping visible – 3:41
Auto tone settings – 4:07
Alt-click lights / darks – 4:20
Soft / dreamy look – 4:50
Shift-click sliders – 5:08
Erase Brush – 5:25
Luminance range mask – 5:58
Color range mask – 6:43
Adding glow – 7:21
Adding haze – 7:56
Adding color – 8:20
Auto mask brush – 8:53
Tone curve – 9:20
Color adjustment – 10:00
Autumn colors – 10:24
Polarization effect – 10:41
Alt-click split toning – 11:09
Sharpening mask – 11:33
Auto straighten photo – 12:05
Calibration color grading – 12:28
Check out the full video up top to dive into all 30 tips for yourself and see them in action. And if you want to see more from Möhrle and The Phlog, you can find him on his website, Instagram, Facebook, and YouTube.
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