I think I’ve found my calling! Well, at least for this particular time in my life. In the last few months I’ve been engaged in flower photography and loving it. Who would have thought. Here’s just one of my images for you to enjoy.
Polina Plotnikova creates beautiful, often painterly, flower portraits and still-life studies. Here she talks to Tracy Calder about the magic of previsualisation and the joy of working in a studio
It’s already been a long day for Polina Plotnikova by the time we sit down to chat over Zoom. The award-winning photographer was recently invited to join the assessment team at the Royal Photographic Society and has spent much of the day learning how to grade visual art panels.
‘It’s very different from all of my previous experience of judging,’ she smiles. Polina is very much in demand and looking at her beautiful, perfectly executed flower photography it’s easy to see why.
The balance of energy and precision in her work is perfectly suited to her bubbly, highly analytical nature. Each picture is flawless, and yet fizzing with life. Photography has been part of Polina’s story since she was 12 years old. ‘My first camera wasn’t that reliable – it was Russian-based technology, although Russian optics are very popular now,’ she laughs.
Having achieved a degree in the History of Art at Moscow State University she went on to work for various museums and galleries managing submissions, curating exhibitions and dealing with image collections. To quench her thirst for knowledge, she later travelled to London where she spent a year studying modern art.
‘I was dealing with absolute masterpieces,’ she reveals, ‘contemporary photographs, paintings and fine art.’
Purple cyclamen shot with a Lensbaby Twist 60 against sparkly craft paper to get a bokeh effect. Canon EOS R, Lensbaby Twist 60, 1/60sec, ISO 400
Practise previsualisation Polina’s background in fine art can be seen in her painterly flower and still-life studies. ‘I have one series of images shot in the style of the Old Masters and another that’s a homage to my favourite Impressionists,’ she explains. ‘I’m not trying to create an image that pretends to be a painting but I use my knowledge and love of art history when visualising my pictures.’
This idea of previsualisation is central to Polina’s work. A self-confessed ‘control freak’, she loves working in the studio where every element can be tweaked until it matches the vision she has in her mind’s eye. Sometimes she will draw sketches featuring objects she plans to use, colour schemes or lighting ideas.
‘It’s important that I am 100% responsible for whatever is going on in front of my camera,’ she stresses. ‘Other photographers – whose work I greatly admire – take joy in showing an element of serendipity in their work, but that irritates me no end! I love it when the most spontaneous-looking movement in my pictures is actually something I have created deliberately.’
Red Anthurium flowers shot with a Lensbaby Burnside 35 with vignetting slider to create more mystery
Reveal the less obvious Polina clearly enjoys creating compositions from scratch, with all the infinite possibilities this presents, but I’m curious to know if her approach to flower photography changes when she ventures outdoors. ‘No,’ she laughs. ‘I apply the same approach. I don’t go out hoping to find pictures, I still have a preconceived idea.’
But working with preconceived ideas surely creates additional challenges in the studio, because you can’t rely on a burst of sunlight or fortuitous natural combinations of plants. ‘Yes, the final result is entirely in your hands,’ she agrees. But even in the studio, nature can be unpredictable and Polina still has to remain relatively flexible, especially when it comes to flowers.
‘If you rely on your preconceived idea too much you may struggle to find the shape of flower that you have in mind because, unfortunately, nature is not under your control,’ she laughs. ‘If I could change that I would!’ Polina approaches her flower photography in a similar way to traditional portraiture. Each flower is examined to identify its unique character and personality, after which she attempts to draw out something hidden or less obvious.
Above: Apple of Peru seed head, part of Polina’s Past Perfect panel for the RPS Canon EOS 5D Mark II, 100mm, 1/125sec at f/13, ISO 100
‘It’s like circled feedback between you and the subject,’ she explains. While each flower specimen is unique, she uses her preconceived ideas to help shape the final image. ‘I might put a flower in front of the camera and notice the light doesn’t work from a certain angle, but because I have an idea in my mind I can adapt quickly,’ she reveals.
As fans of ikebana (the Japanese art of flower arranging) will know, you can’t force a plant to twist or turn to suit your needs; you have to work with what you’ve got. ‘Yes, forcing flowers into position can look artificial,’ agrees Polina. ‘You could say that still life is artificial by default, but you are still exploring the way that objects behave in front of the camera. You are looking at the relationship between light, shape and texture, for example.’
Study in blue of Agapanthus flower. Shot with continuous light and reflectors. Canon EOS R, 100mm, 1/30sec at f/2.8, ISO 200
Work with what you’ve got Polina’s mastery of light is first-rate. Drawing on her fine art background she uses natural and artificial sources to convey mood and emotion. Whether she’s using her continuous lighting (from Interfit) or her beloved Bowens flash heads, she stresses that the most important thing is getting know your equipment.
‘Whether I use flash or continuous light usually depends on the kind of depth of field I’m after. If I’m using a Lensbaby or a macro lens wide open I won’t be able to use my Bowens, even at the lowest power, for example, so it’s about finding the right balance.’ To modify her light – creating shadows or highlights – Polina uses softboxes, umbrellas, honeycomb grids, filters, reflectors and diffusors; anything that might help her to communicate a story.
When I ask Polina about her home studio she rolls her eyes and laughs. ‘Home studio is a bit of a glorified name, because it’s actually just my study,’ she reveals. ‘Although my husband claims it’s his music room!’ It’s so refreshing to see what can be achieved in a relatively small, shared space.
‘Flowers and still-life arrangements aren’t particularly space demanding,’ Polina assures, ‘so don’t be put off by big words like “home studio”, because a spare room will do just fine. Ideally you want natural light coming from two sides, but just work with what you’ve got.’
Unstill Life series. Natural light with an additional reflector Canon EOS 5D Mark II, 24-70mm, 1/4sec at f/8, ISO 125
Spend your time wisely As our conversation draws to a close, Polina says something that really hits home. ‘I don’t press the button until I see the perfect picture on my screen.’ While she does use Photoshop – and points out she’s not ‘one of those purists who say you should get everything right in-camera’ – she prefers to spend time with her camera rather than her computer.
‘If I can find a physical thing that will help me to achieve an effect I’m after, rather than using Photoshop, I will,’ she explains. By way of an example, she describes taking a piece of crystal and holding it in front of the camera to create interesting light effects. The subject of ‘getting it right before you release the shutter’ comes up again as we discuss backgrounds.
When she’s teaching, Polina tends to use shop-bought versions designed for studio photographers. ‘Don’t buy them all in one place though, because you will end up with pictures that look like everyone else’s,’ she warns. To be on the safe side, Polina advises using patterns that imitate nature rather than anything too bold or eye-catching.
Paphiopedilum orchid portrait, shot using continuous light with a few diffusers and reflectors to eliminate shadows Canon EOS 5D Mark II, 100mm, 1/250sec at f/13, ISO 100
If you want something bespoke, however, Polina recommends creating your own backgrounds. ‘To do this I take a digital capture – it might be a multiple exposure or abstract image using Intentional Camera Movement – then work on it in Photoshop and print it out on matt paper, around A3 size. I then have the option of painting over parts of it with acrylic paint, pencils or pastels.’
This backdrop is then used behind flowers or still-life studies. (Polina also takes a digital shot of the final backdrop so she can use it later as a layer in Photoshop).
Finishing our call before Polina becomes totally Zoomed out, I’m struck by the dedication she has to her craft.
Whether she is capturing flowers, dancers or dolls (her new obsession) she applies the same level of passion and perfectionism to the job – and her willingness to go that extra mile really shows. Polina Plotnikova is currently running several workshops at www.tradesecrets.live.
Polina Plotnikova Polina specialises in still-life studies and flower portraiture. With numerous distinctions and photography awards to her name, she draws on her background in fine art to make images that match the vision she has in her mind’s eye. Visit www.polinaplotnikova.com.
Polina’s kit list
Canon EOS 5DS R Polina currently uses a Canon EOS 5DS R for most of her studio work, but often uses a Canon EOS R when teaching and travelling. One thing she always looks for in a digital camera body is a decent multiple exposure mode.
Lensbaby Composer Pro with Sweet 50 Optic Using a Lensbaby allows Polina to create special effects in-camera rather than relying on Photoshop. It also gives her the opportunity to ‘visually think outside the box’ while still having plenty of control. When pushed, she recommends a Lensbaby Composer Pro with Sweet 50 Optic.
Tweezers When you need to adjust folds in fabric, petals or small leaves, a pair of tweezers (or similar) can be invaluable. ‘Sometimes your fingers, as careful as you are, are not going to do the job,’ says Polina.
Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Having recently acquired a Canon 50mm f/1.2L lens, Polina has been seriously impressed by the quality, but for flower portraiture and still life she still finds her Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM lens hard to beat.
Manfrotto 190CXPRO4 (or similar) It’s useful to have a tripod with a central column that can be positioned at 90°, such as the Manfrotto 190CXPRO4, but when it comes to the head choice Polina isn’t fussy. ‘I recently switched to a ball head with two levers because my wrists have become a little weak,’ she reveals.
Polina’s top flower photography tips
Take your time ‘Flowers are perfect models: they don’t fidget, you don’t have to provide them with a lunch break, and they don’t check their Instagram every five minutes,’ laughs Polina. So, take your time and try to draw out something hidden or less obvious from your subject.
Get to know your gear ‘So many people on my creative flower photography workshops watch me demonstrate a technique and then say, ‘I don’t think I can do that with my camera.’ I then show them they can,’ explains Polina. ‘A lot of people are still neglecting to read the manual!’
Backlighting without the cost ‘If you want to shoot backlit flowers, but you don’t have a studio light, then consider using a diffusor in front of a window on a bright day. Place your subject in front of it and then use a reflector (or piece of tin foil) to reflect light back onto the subject.’
Raid the Christmas box Whether you want to create bokeh, rain or a natural sun-kissed look, you might find that you have everything you need in the house already. For this image the rose was placed on a sheet of tin foil, with a rail of tinsel strands behind it, and then sprayed with a plant mister.
Try tethering ‘Tethering the camera to the laptop helps me to see things in a two-dimensional format,’ says Polina. ‘When I look through the viewfinder, I am effectively still seeing a three-dimensional image (whatever I see with my eyes), which makes it harder for me to spot any imperfections.’
Think portraiture When you’re photographing flowers, think like a portrait photographer and try to bring out individual characteristics. Don’t try to force a plant into an unnatural position – it’s better to respond to what’s in front of you and then tweak your technique accordingly.
Here are 10 features and techniques that’ll inspire and educate you on flower photography so you can get outdoors and enjoy the fresh air or, if you prefer the comfort of your couch, we also have indoor flower photography tips and tricks to share.
If you’re a fan of black & white photography, with a twist of fine art and macro flower photography thrown in, you’ve come to the right article as we’re teaching you how to get all Mapplethorpe at home with one flower and a few photography tools.
Light & Equipment
The location for this shoot was a living room, making most of the light pouring through the window. Direct sunlight is too harsh for this work so the set up was placed away from the window. A macro lens is ideal for this subject and it’s always a good idea to mount your camera on a tripod for stability. Use a remote release, if you have one, to fire the shutter and if your camera has it, the mirror lock-up facility can also help minimise any risk of camera shake.
The background needs to be plain and a piece of black material will work fine. The examples shown here were shot against a black fleece draped over the back of a chair and some on black slate slabs which goes to show you really can use anything!
Exposure & Focusing
Focusing was done manually, which is always best for macro work when the lens can search for focus and aperture-priority was used, along with the exposure compensation facility to fine-tune the result. With a white lily against a black backdrop, the risk of poor exposure is quite high, so you may need to make minor adjustments as you go along.
For the above shot, the lens was set to its smallest aperture (f/36) for maximum depth-of-field which gave a shutter speed of 2secs. All the pictures here were done at ISO200.
Next, the flowers were moved closer to the camera and the lens was opened to its maximum aperture to throw the closer flower out of focus.
Closer still, these shots focus on the flower’s stamen, with the shot to the right excluding the black backdrop completely. Depth-of-field, when you’re this close to the subject, is minimal even at a small aperture, as the images to the right shot at f/36 shows.
Quite a few cameras have a multiple exposure feature which will allow two or more exposures to be captured on the same frame. To create the effect shown in the following shot you need to capture one exposure sharp and one totally defocused.
If photographing the flower straight-on doesn’t produce the look you’re trying to create, try laying it down on a plain surface. The flower in the following shot had to be held in place with a piece of tape to open up the petal.
Black & White
Most digital cameras, even modest compacts, have a monochrome mode, which offers a quick way to enjoy black & white photography. However, convenient though this mode is, the image file straight out of the camera can lack contrast and may need some work in your editing software if you’re going to get the most from it.
The shot on the left is the JPEG monochrome file straight out of the camera and it looks a little flat. The right image is the same shot but the Levels were tweaked in Photoshop which gives more intense blacks and brighter whites.
It’s worth remembering that if you’re shooting in JPEG format, images shot in the monochrome setting will record in black & white only and you can’t produce a colour image should you change your mind later. Shoot Raw and even though the camera monitor might show the mono result you have the full-colour file at your disposal. The best option, if your camera has it, is to shoot in Raw and fine quality JPEG at the same time.
Many cameras have the option of letting you modify your shots using contrast filters (yellow, orange and red are the most popular), toning effects and Art Filters. Some of which can work well with this type of photography so it’s worth experimenting with.
Used sparingly, toning monochrome images is a very effective technique and if your camera doesn’t allow you to apply effects while shooting, you can always adjust your shots in image editing software.
As the above image shows, with lenses designed for macro photography attached to a more advanced camera, you can capture great outdoor flower shots. However, just because you’re a compact user doesn’t mean you shouldn’t shoot outdoor flower shots. In fact, with these few tips, you’ll soon be on your way to capturing an excellent example of flower photography.
1. White Balance
Compact cameras come with various white balance presets that tell the camera what type of light source you are taking your photographs under. Some settings vary from camera-to-camera but there are four you’ll see on all models which are: Auto, Daylight, Cloudy, Tungsten and Fluorescent. When working outdoors, try the Daylight setting (usually a sun symbol) when working on bright days and the Cloudy setting for overcast days.
2. Use Macro Mode
If you want to make one flower your subject rather than focusing on a group, switch to macro mode. The Macro mode, which has a flower head icon, can be found either on the mode dial if your camera has one, or, in your camera’s menu system. Some compacts focus within millimetres of your subject while others have a minimum focusing distance of a few centimetres. However, results can still be excellent.
3. AF Mode
If you struggle to get the camera to focus on the point you want then switch your focus mode. Various modes are available and different modes suit different purposes. Spot can be useful when you have one specific flower to focus on as this mode is fixed more towards the centre of the screen. You can position your camera so the target marker is over your the subject you want to focus on then all you have to do is half-press the shutter button to focus then take your shot.
4. Try Using Exposure Compensation
Dark backgrounds are great for shooting lighter coloured flowers against as it’ll allow them to ‘pop’ from the frame. However, a large dark background which only has a small area of highlight in can fool your camera into thinking the scene is darker than it actually is and as a result, it can end up looking overexposed. Switching to spot metering can help with this but you may also need to have a play with exposure compensation to produce a more balanced exposure.
5. Think About Distance
By Zooming in closer to your subject, it’ll fill the foreground of the frame and chances are the background will be thrown nicely out of focus so it’s blurred. This is because the depth of field becomes shallower. Ensuring there’s distance between your subject and background will also make it easier for your camera to throw the background out of focus. By doing so, the background won’t be a distraction and all attention will fall on your flower rather than what’s around or behind it.
6. Learn To Use The Histogram
LCD screens can be used to preview images on but when it’s sunny it can be hard to judge if the exposure is correct and this is where the histogram comes in useful.
Basically, you don’t want the graph to be touching the left or right border and you want it to peak more in the middle and get lower towards either end. There are times when this won’t apply but generally, it works.
Photographing a flower head on a black background is a simple but effective way to make yourself a piece of wall art. The bright petals against a stark, dark background make a vibrant image that wouldn’t look out of place on the shelves of stores that are designed to fill your home with accessories and decorations.
Window for light or two constant light sources placed either side of your set-up
Container to hold your flower
Tripod – keep your hands free so you can adjust the position of the flower head etc.
2. Constant Light Source
If it’s a sunny day you’ll have plenty of free light falling through your windows to work with, however, if it’s a gloomy and really overcast you’ll need a couple of constant light sources to place at either side of your set-up. You want just enough light so the petals have contrast and don’t blend together. Take a look at the edge of the flower too as you don’t want it to vanish into the background too much.
3. Background Choices
You can use whatever you have to hand as long as it’s black and not reflective. As holding a flower still is rather hard work, we used a plastic cup as a stand and taped the flower to it but a vase or any other container will work just as well.
4. Do & Don’t
Don’t use an aperture that’s too wide as you’ll lose too much detail towards the edges of the flower and if you’re shooting straight on make sure the centre of the flower is sharp. Experiment with your shooting distance, taking shots of just the centre of the flower or try changing the position of the flower to shoot it on a slight angle.
5. Photo Editing
Once you have your shots why not get creative in Photoshop? Take a look at ePHOTOzine’s technique section for Photoshop, Lightroom, Elements and GIMP editing tutorials.
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